Garden Gym Construction: Floor, Height and Air

Size and height against the training you actually do

Match the space to your heaviest use, not your average session. Overhead pressing, pull ups and anything on a rack all eat ceiling height, and rowers and mats eat floor length.

The floor, from the ground up

Dropped weights transmit force into the base, and a lightweight timber floor over piers will flex and boom. A solid slab handles it far better, and a platform of ply and rubber above that protects both the floor and the bar.

Rubber tiles alone are not a fix for a bouncy floor. They protect the surface, not the structure. Get the base right and the matting becomes a finish choice rather than a repair.

Ventilation, because a gym is a humidity machine

One person training hard puts a lot of moisture into a small sealed room. Without a route out, that humidity lands on the coldest surface and you get condensation, then musty smells, then complaints about the equipment rusting.

An extract fan, openable windows on two sides for cross ventilation, and an air conditioning unit that can also cool in summer will keep it comfortable. Cooling matters more here than in most garden buildings.

Mirrors, walls and impact

Full length mirrors need a flat, true wall, which is a plastering job. A wall that is out by a few millimetres shows badly across a two metre mirror.

Walls also take knocks from bars and handles, so a plastered and painted finish over solid board holds up better than thin lining that dents.

Power and the extras

Plan sockets for a treadmill or bike where they will stand, and for a screen and speakers at head height rather than skirting level. Bright, even lighting beats a single pendant, particularly for early morning sessions in winter.

• Sockets sited for cardio kit, screens and fans
• Even, high output lighting rather than mood lighting
• Somewhere to hang towels and store plates off the floor
• Consider a water point outside the door for filling bottles and rinsing mats